This Holy Week, I went with some friends to the much-talked about beaches of Caramoan in the province of Camarines Sur. Prior to the trip, I have never even heard of Caramoan before. Inaya lang ako ng aking kaibigan at fellow Asser na si Herbert. Turns out the town had already been featured in some TV shows and newspapers as one of the Philippines’s best summer places. As our day of departure neared, muntik pa kong mag-back out dahil na-guilty akong hindi ako umuwi sa bahay to be with my family. At nung tumawag pa yung Daddy ko a day before our scheduled departure, sabi nya may tsunami scare daw somewhere at wag na daw ako pumunta sa beach (turns out the tsunami alert he was talking about was raised in the Solomon Islands na may kalayuan portion naman sa Pilipinas!). Tinawagan ko si Herbert the night before we left para sana sabihin sa kanya na hindi na lang ako sasama at babayaran ko na lang sya for the bus ticket. Pero nung nakausap ko na siya, I didn’t have the heart to tell him that I was backing out, so ang kinalabasan eh natuloy pa rin ako sa pagsama sa Caramoan. After a really crazy day (meron akong sunod-sunod na meetings at urgent errands na kinailangang gawin nung Holy Wednesday), nauna pa ako sa bus station sa Cubao kina Herbert at Anya. Terible ang traffic kahit saan nung araw na yun, akala ko hindi na aabot ang dalawa sa aming 9 PM na schedule. Nakaabot naman sila, kaya lang itong Grand Star Coach bus ay isang dakilang palpak na bus line, kaya 100 years bago namin nakuha ang aming reserved seats at maluwalhating nakasakay.
I read somewhere that the best way to gauge if you could really get along with someone is to travel with him/her. Naniniwala rin ako dito. Kasi sa travel, especially the ones that did not go as smoothly as planned, dyan mabilis mag-manifest ang tunay na kulay ng mga tao—agad nagse-surface ang pagiging reklamador, tamad, brattinella, at iba pang mga nakakairitang quirks. Sina Anya at Herbert para sa akin ay time-tested na as mga ayos kasama sa mahahabang biyahe at bakasyunan dahil ilang beses ko na silang nakasama sa mga trips to far-off places. Our recent trip to Caramoan did not change that impression at all. Kasama pa rin sila sa aking listahan ng mga taong pipiliin kong kasama sa mga lakad kahit saan.
Going to Caramoan
Kung hindi ka mahilig sa long road trips at mahihiluhin ka sa dagat, hindi para sa iyo ang Caramoan! To be able to get there, you need to take a 10-hour bus ride to Naga. From Naga, sasakay ka ng van or jeep papuntang Sabang port. Aabutin ng mahigit sa isa’t kalahating oras na drive ito. Pagdating mo sa Sabang, kailangan mo namang sumakay ng motorized boat. Interesting din ito kasi isa sa pinagkakakitaan ng mga locals pag high tide eh ang pag-karga sa mga turista mula sa shore pasakay ng bangka! This is also a common practice in Boracay, yun nga lang mas scary ang mga alon sa Camarines Sur, kaya talagang hindi ka pwede mag-inarte at mas piliin pang lumusong kesa magpa-buhat. Akala nga namin nung una, nagpapatawa o nananamantala lang yung mga mama na sumalubong sa amin pagbaba ng jeep at nagsabing sila na lang ang bubuhat sa amin papuntang bangka. Sabi pa ni Herbert, “Sigurado kayo? Kaya nyo ba ‘to?!” sabay turo sa big girl na si Anya. Sagot nung mama, “Oo, dalawa naman kami eh!” True enough, it did take two men to carry Anya from the shore to the boat!
It’s not obvious in this picture, but there actually two men carrying Anya on their shoulders! The scene was hilarious!
At kay haba ng boat ride. Buti na lang hindi naman ako mabilis ma-seasick. Halos dalawang oras niyong babaybayin ang karagatan bago makarating sa Guijalo port ng Caramoan! At hindi pa ito dyan nagtatapos. Kailangan mo pa ulit sumakay ng tricycle for another 30 minutes or so bago makarating sa Sentro. But I could say the long trip is really worth it–wala ka naman talagang masasabi sa view habang nakasakay ka sa bangka!
Oo nga pala, kung katulad kita na Sun Cellular ang linya, wag mo na dalhin cellphone mo sa Caramoan dahil ito’y dead spot, walang signal kahit saan! Dapat nga magkikita kami ng kabarkada kong si Dada dahil nasa Caramoan din sya. But no! Paglampas namin ng Naga, hindi ko na sya na-contact.
Only in Caramoan
Pagbaba namin sa Guijalo, we met up with Enyong, ang tricycle driver na just one text away kung gusto mo magpasundo o magpahatid anywhere in the town (sosyal, di ba?)! Meron kaming advanced party na dumating sa Caramoan the day before, ang mag-jowang sina Tin at JJ. Sila na ang nakakuha kay Enyong at nakapagpa-reserve ng aming tirahan sa BC Hometel, bahay ng isang local na may mga rooms for rent para sa mga bakasyonista.
When we got to the Sentro, halos mamatay-matay na kami sa gutom. Inihinto muna kami ni Enyong sa carinderia ni Ate Joy, isang local na super bait din, para mag-lunch. Sa sobrang pagka-PG, kumuha kami ng at least 6 na orders ng iba-ibang ulam na naubos din namin! Pero alam mo kung anong nakakatuwa? 140+ lang ang binayaran namin! Kasama pa ang soft drinks doon ha. Astig! After some time, dumating din sina Tin at JJ sa carinderia at don lang kami nagkakilala lahat.
After lunch, punta na kami sa aming tutuluyang bahay. Hindi ito mala-condo ha. Ordinaryong kwarto lang sya ng isang ordinaryong bahay. Pero masaya na rin ako na meron kaming matinong tulugan, kasi ang kinakatakot ko nga eh titira lang kami sa tent for the rest of our stay. Actually, isa rin ito sa major factors kung baket muntik na ko mag-backout. Parang di ko kasi feel noon na pahirapan ang sarili ko on what’s supposed to be a time for relaxation! Yun naman pala, may bahay namang pinapaupahan para gawing tambayan at tulugan. After a quick bath, bagsak kaming lahat at natulog buong maghapon.
First Stop: Gota Beach!
Matapos ang refreshing nap, ginising kami ni Herbert bandang 5 PM para maghanda sa pagpunta sa beach. We packed our beach stuff at nagpasundo kay Enyong (who’s just one SMS away! Naks!).
Gota Beach is about 30 minutes away by trike. When we arrived, Tin and JJ were also there. The sand is not as fine or white as that in Boracay and Palawan. However, the view is spectacular. Huge boulders, powerful, crashing waves. Ganda! Medyo matao sa Gota Beach that night. Parang may pasayaw yata kasi may mobile (ha! 90s na 90s, ba?!) at lone strobe light—like your usual provincial “sayawan sa plaza.” I had fun that night, though. Herbert brought butane stove. Amidst the strong winds at kung ano-ano pang elementong humalo sa niluto nyang dinner (gaya ng buhangin, ganyan), we enjoyed the Carbonara and the longganisang Lucban that Anya bought during our stopover in Lucena. 
Herbert with his little cookware. He’s using the trike to block the wind and keep the fire going. Is that the full moon behind him? Next picture: Anya inside the tent, wearing a head lamp and providing light as Herbert cooks.
Sarap mag-dinner in a beach setting: presko at malakas na hangin, fantastic view of the ocean, under a majestic blanket of stars…
Day 2 – Friday: Sabitan Laiya Beach Day
We woke up at around 8 AM. Si Herbert galit na galit sa mga manok dahil hindi daw sya nakatulog sa ingay nila. Bumaba kami para makiluto ng breakfast. I was surprised to find out na hindi pa uso ang automatic stove—as in ang gamit pa rin nila ay mga lutuan na nilalagyan ng panggatong! Kewl! We fried eggs, and longganisa na tira from last night, cooked rice and soup. Mahirap pala magluto gamit ang mga kahoy—masyadong mausok, masakit sa mata, at mahirap kontrolin ang apoy. Using firewoord follows a really simple logic though: magbawas ng kahoy for Low fire and magdagdag for High. Nag-survive naman kami at masayang nakakain. Sabi nung astonished katiwala don sa bahay, “9 AM na ang breakfast nyo?!” Masyadong late na daw kami kumain. Nagtinginan lang kaming tatlo at nung umalis sya, sabi namin, “Sa Manila nga, ala-una na ko gumigising pag weekend!”
Bandang tanghali, dumating sina Skeeter and friends. All in all, 12 na kami! Dahil mga galing sa biyahe at super pagod na pagod, hindi na sila sumama sa amin sa pagbi-beach, except for Lye, and pinaka-bagong addition sa Panay house. Herbert, Anya, Me, Tin, JJ, and Lye went to a smaller port and road a boat. Ang nakakaaliw pa is when we went to Ate Joy’s carinderia sa sentro para bumili ng lunch, pinakyaw namin lahat ng ulam don. We bought steames crabs, and fish, beef, isang kalderong kanin… Alam nyo kung magkano binayaran namin? Just a little over 400 pesos! Imagine, nagsara na sya dahil inubos namin lahat ng tinda nya tapos wala pang 500 ang bill. Woo-hoo! Sa bangka naman, super mura ng rental! 700 lang for the whole day!
Napakadaming magagandang islands sa Caramoan, pero don kami dinala ng manong bangkero sa Sabitan Laiya. Yun nga lang, mejo nakakatakot ang mga alon pag papalapit ka na sa island (talagang mare-realize mo na you are just a dot in the ocean, walang laban ang inyong munting bangka sa power ng dagat). Sabi ni Herbert, “You know how to swim right?” I replied, “Yeah, but for no more than 5 minutes and only in a swimming pool!” When we got to Sabitan, we were very happy to see na we had the entire beach ALL TO OURSELVES. As in walang tao.
This is the kind of beach getaway I like! ‘Di ko masyadong trip ang beaches with huge crowds or numerous bars like Boracay and Puerto Galera. I went to Galera once with my Econ friends and never got interested in going back there ever again. I was also in Boracay in 2005–the trip was fun in general, but I was turned off by the really thick algae gathered at the shore of the entire beach! Yun ba ay dulot ng mga wastes na itinatapon sa karagatan dahil wala daw maayos na waste management system sa island? Does that mean people are almost literally wading in their own wastes? EEEW!
Sabitan Laiya is pristine, immaculate. Clear blue waters set against beautiful, enormous limestone rocks, almost-white, fine sand, cool wind. I could just lie on the sand there all day, away from all worries.
Si Perviebooboo. Looking really small in front of the huge rocks. Still at Sabitan Laiya.
Low tide. I think we’re stepping on dead corals…
Anya’s the only person I know who’d go to the beach wearing white pants and a jacket.
Manong bangkero left briefly, and went back after several hours. Before we took off for home, ipinag-pitas nya pa kami ng mga buco which we heartily ate on the boat. Slurp! Come evening, we planned to again cook dinner at Gota Beach kaso naman umulan. Pero dahil nasa camping mode pa rin kami, naglatag na lang ng mat sa terrace at nagluto si Herbert ng dinner using, again, his tiny butane stove. Pasta Pomodoro and Maling! We were joined by the rest of the group, and it was fun bonding in the breezy evening over gin and Pale Pilsen.
Day 3 – Lahos Beach and Jellyfish Beach
For the first time, kumpleto na kaming lumarga patungong beach. Pumunta muna kami sa sentro para bumili ng aming mga kakainin sa beach. Pagdating sa port, kumuha kami ng 2 boats, 6 people rode on each boat. First stop: the magnificent Lahos beach. Sobra, sobrang ganda ng beach na ito.


The waters are set apart by a wide strip of sand, and super lakas ng waves. Wala rin halos ng tao nung dumating kami. On the right side, the ocean floor is very rocky and uneven. Ewan ko kung ang natatapakan naming ay corals or mga bato, pero takot ang beauty ko lumangoy dito. Don sa kabila, fine sand pero grabe ang mga alon! Kahit sang spot ka umupo sa beach na yun, the view remains breathtaking. One couldn’t help but be overwhelmed by the colors, the sounds, and the general serenity of the whole place. After Lahos, lumipat pa ulit kami ng beach kasi sinabi ng mga mamang bangkero na it’s going to be low tide soon, at mahirap na daw para sa mga bangka makaalis if the water gets too low.
Skeet, me, Lye, Lian and Peewee
Assers in Caramoan: Anya, Herb, Me, and Skeet
Yung nilipatan naming beach, hindi kasing ganda ng Lahos or Sabitan Laiya, pero mas ideal for swimming kasi calm water lang. Kaso eto naman pala ang catch: it’s home to countless jellyfish! As in nakaka-praning even to just wade in the water kasi minsan lumulubog ka pa lang, nakikita mo na those nasty, floating little stingers! Si Herbert naman led Peewee, Juno, and JJ into a daring swim in open water (they swam all the way to the next island, but Herbert said it’s just about 200 meters or so). The rest of the afternoon was spent lazing on the beach reading the books we brought or talking or just quietly taking it all in.
Nung magga-gabi na, pumunta kami sa beach na halos katabi lang ng Gota (kalimutan ko na ang pangalan). Dito na kami nag-pitch ng aming tents. Herbert was determined kasi to sleep at least one night sa beach, so since that was our last night, we decided to check out sa house na ni-rent namin and spend the night at the beach. Yung mga iba umuwi na nung kinagabihan, pero kaming mga natira, nagtimpla ng Gin-Sprite-juice at uminom ng beer. Shet, sarap uminom sa malamig na gabi! Ang natira ay ako, Herbert, Anya, Drei and Peewee. Meron pang dalang MP3 player and speakers si Drei, so parang mini-party na rin ang nangyari. However, we probably got too noisy, kakasigaw at kakatawa, kasi eventually may isang local na lumapit sa amin and warned us to keep it down. Super kinilabutan kami sa kanya kasi sabi nya pa, “Sa akin okay lang na magsaya kayo. Kaya lang ang hindi natin masabi ay kung paano yung mga hindi natin nakikita.” Pag-alis nya, pinatay namin agad ang radyo at sumubok na magkwentuhan ng mahina. Hehehe.
Sina Drei at Peewee ay natulog sa isang tent while Herbert, Anya and I ay nagsiksikan sa two-man tent. Gudlak. I found it quite hard to sleep, kahit medyo nakainom ako. I was starting to doze off nung naramdaman kong biglang umulan. Bumangon agad si Herbert para i-seal ang tent. Lalo na akong hindi makatulog kasi, unang-una, hindi ako makahinga. At higit sa lahat, kinakabahan akong the rain would make the water rise much higher at baka bigla na lang eh anurin na lang ang aming munting tent sa laot. I couldn’t shake off weird images of us trapped and helpless inside our tent habang palutang-lutang sa kawalan.
Day 4 – Last Day in Caramoan!
Malaman-laman ko eh huminto na ang ulan at unti-unti nang sumisikat ang araw (although mejo may kadiliman pa din). Isa-isa na kaming bumangon at nagluto ng vetsin i.e. instant pancit canton, instant noodles, corned beef, canned tuna… healthy meal, di ba?! Naki-ligo muna kami sa hometel at tumambay sandali. Gusto pa sana naming puntahan yung inland lagoon, kaso wala nang oras dahil ang mga bangka mula Guijalo papuntang Sabang ay hanggang 1 PM lang. By around 11 AM, we got to the port and waited for the boat that would take us to Sabang. Kakaaliw pa kasi may “terminal fee” pa sa port. How much? 1 peso per person! Naningil pa sila! Hehehe. Bad trip kasi pagsakay namin sa bangka, “nag-lunch” pa daw yung driver! Ang mga pasahero ng halos isang oras ata sa bangkang palutang-lutang. Sobrang nakakahilo! Ang tali-talino naman kasi ng nagisip na pasakayin muna ang passengers bago hintaying matapos kumain ang “pilot.”
8:15 PM ang scheduled alis ng bus namin. Swerte kami kasi pagdating namin nung Day 1 sa Naga, may bagong bukas na Sunday trip kaya naka-reserve kami ng seats. Kawawa sila Lian, ang aming kasamang Bb. Pilipinas-Universe (naks!) kasi kailangang-kailangan na nilang umuwi that morning kaya napilitan silang patulan ang non-aircon bus going to Manila! Imagine, going on a 10-hour trip, tanghaling tapat tapos walang aircon! Yikes!
Pagdating sa Naga, siguro nga 4 PM pa lang. Tinext ko ang aking kabarkadang si Dada na sa Naga talaga ang hometown. She met me, Herbert and Anya at Biggs Burgers, Bicol’s local version ng “Hotshots.” Tumambay muna kami sa bahay nya. She and her family were such great hosts! We stayed in their gazebo, drank beer, and tasted Indonesian kropek (na binili nya from her ASEAN fellowship trip). Tapos for dinner, nag-serve sila ng napakasarap na Pinangat—para itong laing na may gata at ground fish—saka, of course, authentic Bicol Express. Tapos si Dada nilabas ang kanyang album with our pictures as freshmen in UP! Syempre nakita pa tuloy ni Anya at Herbert how I looked like when I was in first year. Waaa! Seriously, though, I couldn’t help feeling proud that our barkada remained solid even after some of us shifted out of Econ and we all got busy with our own careers. Over 10 years of friendship is not something many people could boast of. And it’s just so wonderful to have been blessed with such a special bond which we nourish to this day.

With my long-time kabarkada, Dada. At their very nice home in Naga.
Badly sunburned but happy! We’re all smiles after a fine dinner of Pinangat and authentic Bicol Express courtesy of the Nieves family.
Sumama pa si Dada sa amin hanggang Naga Bus Terminal, si Papa nya pa ang nag-drive sa amin. Happiness! Ang dami pang aberya nung pauwi na kami ng Manila. Kasi naman, itong Grand Star coach bus ay talagang far from being “grand.” Nasiraan pa kami somewhere in Quezon at naghintay for over 2 hours for a rescue bus! Stress!
But to sum it all up, I did not at all regret joining the trip. Unlike some people, I do not get bored with really long road trips—I love them, in fact. Secondly, ang saya ng feeling na na I got to know Caramoan. Prior to our Holy Week getaway, I’ve never even heard of Caramoan before. Pero sobrang vast ng natural wonders in this peninsula! Even though we were there for four days, sobrang dami pa rin naming hindi napuntahan. And we all vow to go back and find out more about it one day.
Ang wish ko lang talaga ay sana wag ma-commercialize ang Caramoan. I know it would improve the town’s economy kung dadami ang mga turista, kaya lang kasi, I would hate for the pristine beaches of Caramoan to someday turn into a Boracay or Galera na halos hindi mo na makita ang beauty of nature dahil sa dami ng gimikan at dami ng tao. Sana ma-preserve pa rin ito kahit mas maraming tao na ang makaalam na somewhere in Southern Luzon eh nage-exist ang beautiful, almost untouched beaches of Caramoan.